I am head over heels in love with this country. I can’t seem to understand where or why so many of my fellow backpackers formulated the negative opinions that were shared often throughout Thailand. It is certainly a country with a rough exterior, but as they say- you can’t judge a book by it’s cover, right? Likely, I think these nay sayers either didn’t spend enough time here or chose to have their entire opinion marred by one negative experience. The truth about most of Asia, is that it’s gruff and often desperate. This is especially true in a communist country, who’s history is riddled with the atrocities of war and government oppression. Unfortunately, the outcome of this is that a few unsavory and dishonest characters have made it their business to prey on naive tourists. Most of the people who had a poor taste of Vietnam, shared a similar story. You find this everywhere in Asia, but I firmly believe if you stay half awake and follow your gut when being propositioned for something that sounds too good to be true, it is unlikely you will come across any harm. Also, trust only yourself. That being said, the quality of life in Vietnam has improved significantly in the last decade and it is generally a country of happy, hard working people. In three words- I would describe the Vietnamese as friendly, enthusiastic, and curious.
After a short flight to Hanoi, we enjoyed an excellent dinner at New Day restaurant before boarding the overnight train to Sapa. We were going to Sapa for the weekend, for 2 days of trekking in this mountainous region of minority villages. Unfortunately, we forgot what month it was and when we disembarked the train in our flipflops and shorts the next morning we were greeted by freezing rain. Hmm, maybe we didn’t really think this one out. The weather went from bad to worse and we spent the weekend trudging through muddy land slides and trying to defrost by small charcoal fires. At night, our lovely host family gave us several pounds of heavy blankets and it was actually the best night’s sleep I’ve had. By sunday it was snowing and I was sure I would lose at least one toe.My lips were a dark shade of purple and I was becoming convinced I would never feel warm again. Given that my only remaining options were flip flops or toms, I bought a pair of rain boots from a hotel receptionist upon our return to civilization and I am still sure that it was the best $3 I ever spent. We were grateful to board the train back to Hanoi, and I spent the night with 5 shirts, 2 pairs of pants, and 2 pairs of socks on. No exaggeration, I was that cold and was that illy prepared for cold weather. Next time I go to the north of anywhere in December, I will remember to bring a sweater. That being said, we still managed to have a lot of fun and our brief and mostly foggy glimpses of Sapa’s famous views were truly breathtaking. Sapa was definitely a mountain town that reminded me a lot of the alps. It should also be said that this was the first time Vietnam had snow since 2010. We picked a good weekend.
After spending the next day in Hanoi completing our Christmas shopping, it was time for me to say goodbye to Alyssa. I am so used to traveling on my own or with ‘strangers’, so it was a welcome experience for me to travel with a good friend. I love the liberty of being on my own and having the freedom to decide what i want to do each day. But traveling with Alyssa was easy, and we made good companions. The next day I left for a 3 day boat cruise through Halong Bay. I had been here once before, in 2006, when I took a short trip to Vietnam while spending my summer volunteering in Bangkok. It is a UNESCO World Heritage sight, and the powerful splendor of the bay’s limestone cliffs convinced me to go back for more! Unfortunately, I was still in the northern part of Vietnam and it was still a lot colder than I was prepared for. At this point I had been recycling the only two long sleeved shirts I have for at least a week. Stinky. We spent the days cruising through amazing rock formations, kayaking, visiting floating fishing villages, and exploring a local island. I returned to Hanoi with one more day to soak In the sights.
Hanoi is a loud, cramped city but has such an amazing amount of character you can’t help but love it. I enjoy Hanoi a lot more than I enjoy Ho Chi Minh City. If you ask anyone in the south of Vietnam, they will warn you sternly that the northerners are not as friendly and not as kind as them. While I do think the Southerners have a unique charm and generosity, I found no fault with the northern Vietnamese people. As much as I was enthralled with the winding streets of Hanoi’s old city, I decided it was only just to explore the other areas as well. But the old city still remains my favorite, I could spend days sitting in the little plastic chairs on the side walk, drinking Bia Hoi (25 cent draft beer, that must be imbibed the day it is brewed, as it has no preservatives) and people watching. So, I went and saw the legendary lake who’s famous turtle is very much still alive and is said to be guarding the country’s most important sword. I also stopped by to say hello to Ho Chi Minh, but his grave site is only open for 3 hours a day so I just waved from outside the gates. Soon, it was time for me to board another train.
On this train I found myself waking up Hue, the imperial capitol city of Vietnam. The imperial city is a massive walled in conglomerate of ancient buildings, temples, gardens, and reception halls. For me, it was reminiscent of Mulan and I was a giddy little girl seeing my favorite Disney movie come to life. It was a fascinating place and full of incredible history. I spent the day touring the other relics of the city with 3 American girls currently serving in the Peace Corps. Remember, when I barely survived my one month stay in the little Nepali village? These brave girls have been doing that for TWO YEARS in Indonesia. They were cool chicks and I was glad to have spent the day with them. In the evening we enjoyed the free Bia Hoi offered by our hotel, the not so legally named “Google Hotel” who’s logo is plagiarized right out of the 90s. It’s a pretty eccentric place, but very enjoyable. After we felt we had sufficiently filled up on our share of free beer, we headed out for a night of backpacker fun. As the first bar closed however, I decided it was my queue to turn as I had to be up at 6am for a full day tour and we all know how unsuccessfully I function with a hangover. It turned out to be a very good cool, when I ran into some fellow revelers the next day who were still nursing the casualties their previous night’s alcohol intake well into the evening. This tour was a full day excursion up to the well known “Demilitarized Zone” or DMZ, that unfortunately was the home of a horrific amount of blood shed during the Vietnam War. This area was essentially the border line between the North and the South, the two opponents of war. There was an obscene number of casualties here and it gained a terrifying reputation among soldier. It was interesting to learn more about the war and see where a lot of the worst days were experienced. We also visited an underground village, that went up to 23 meters deep and housed an entire village of 300+ people during the war. This was their only option to escape the endless bombing that persisted over their homes. It was quite the system and was very successful, as all the villagers survived the war against unlikely odds. There were also 17 babies born underground in the tunnel network! I could not spend 5 years in a cave.
And that brings us to the present day, where I am on a not so luxurious bus returning to Hoi An! I will enjoy the afternoon here before I check into my next hotel aka train carriage number 7 and wake up on the beach in Mui Ne. I will spend Christmas here, with an Australian couple I volunteered with in Nepal. Looking forward to a sunny holiday! Hope you all enjoy your families this week. I will be enjoying mine from very far away, over a hopefully reliable Face Time connection. It’s just like being there! Happy Holidays 🙂
update: blogging on the bus cost me my keyboard. My fancy little iPad bluetooth keyboard is likely for sale on the streets of Vietnam somewhere. I feel like I have lost a blogging limb. I guess I better start exercising my thumbs for touch screen typing 😦